Karl Lagerfeld had never set foot inside a supermarket until he constructed one on a catwalk in 2014, where models strolled down aisles with Chanel-branded baskets, selecting fromage as if it were the most natural thing in the world. This spectacle epitomized Lagerfeld's unique blend of whimsy and genius, a hallmark of his illustrious career. The fashion designer, known for his striking white bouffant and leather gloves, was a paradox. A workaholic who managed Chanel, Fendi, and his own label into his 80s, his public persona often overshadowed the man behind the sunglasses.
The new documentary directed by Nick Hooker, based on William Middleton's biography Paradise Now: The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld, aims to peel back the layers of Lagerfeld's enigmatic personality. Hooker gained access to the designer's inner circle, hoping to uncover the truths hidden beneath Lagerfeld's crafted image. However, many viewers may find the film lacks the depth necessary to fully understand the man who famously declared, “I have spent so long performing a role that not even those closest to me really know who I am.”
Throughout the film, Hooker blends archival footage with interviews from those who knew Lagerfeld, but the approach fails to penetrate the surface of his carefully constructed facade. Lagerfeld was a master at maintaining his mystique, often responding to questions with clever quips rather than genuine insight. This tendency is echoed in a recollection from a journalist who interviewed him, describing a frustrating thirty minutes of interaction filled with witty retorts but little substance.
While the documentary offers intriguing glimpses into Lagerfeld's life, it often skims over the complexities of his character. The film showcases his impressive accomplishments: he was fluent in four languages and was a relentless innovator in the fashion world. Yet, it does not fully explore the emotional or psychological aspects of his life, leaving many questions unanswered. Hooker's film, while dutiful, does not seem to venture far beyond the public persona that Lagerfeld cultivated over decades.
Lagerfeld’s approach to fashion was both theatrical and cerebral. He was known for creating shows that blurred the lines between performance art and fashion. One notable instance was the 2015 Chanel collection presented in a recreated supermarket, a project that not only reflected his playful nature but also his acute understanding of consumer culture. Such spectacles have become synonymous with his legacy, yet they also serve as a reminder of the distance between the designer and his audience.
As the documentary unfolds, it touches on the themes of identity and performance that defined Lagerfeld's life. The film presents a man who was always “on,” a reality that left little room for vulnerability or authenticity. This relentless pursuit of perfection and control is a recurring motif, as Lagerfeld meticulously crafted not only his designs but also his public image.
The film does feature candid moments, such as Lagerfeld’s reflections on his childhood and his early influences. Yet these moments are often brief and do not lead to a deeper understanding. The documentary captures his brilliance but fails to convey the loneliness that often accompanies such a singular vision. Lagerfeld once remarked that he was “always looking for something,” a statement that resonates throughout the film, suggesting a lifelong search for meaning beyond the glitz of fashion.
Despite the access to his inner circle, the documentary struggles to present Lagerfeld as anything other than a fascinating enigma. Close associates share anecdotes, but they, too, seem to grapple with the challenge of conveying the essence of a man who was both loved and misunderstood. The film does not shy away from his controversial opinions and remarks, yet it lacks the critical lens needed to examine how these views shaped his work and relationships.
In the end, Nick Hooker’s documentary stands as a well-intentioned tribute to Karl Lagerfeld but ultimately leaves viewers wanting more. It captures the spectacle of his life without fully exploring the complexities that lay beneath. As Lagerfeld himself once noted, even those closest to him struggled to know the real man behind the high collar and dark glasses. The film, much like Lagerfeld, offers a dazzling exterior but misses an opportunity to uncover the deeper truths of an extraordinary life.
According to The Guardian.
